Pain and Pleasure on the Ocean
I arrived in Puerto Escondido on Thursday night, and it is now Saturday afternoon. Never take the bus OCC from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido. I found out later that there is a van that travels between the two cities, taking ½ the time and costing ½ as many pesos.
Meanwhile, I spent four hours on a bus going up in the mountains, speeding through the hairpin turns; four hours on a roller coaster, nauseated and wishing for the end.
When we arrived at the first stop in Selina Cruz, we sat in the bus for a while, until I got up and found out that there was a landslide two days ago between Selina Cruz and Puerto Escondido, and no traffic was getting through. Although I asked, it was not explained to me or to two other passengers of the bus that traffic would be getting through shortly. The three of us took a taxi for an exhorbitant amount of money from a lying taxi driver, who told me that he would drive us to the landslide, where I could walk across, pulling my two suitcases (which contain most of what I own) and it would be a 10 minute walk to the bus station , which I found out later didn’t exist.
He dropped us off in the midst of the cars, buses and trucks. I started walking in the HOT sun of mid-afternoon. After about ½ hour, the traffic started moving (surprise!), and I realized that I should have stayed on the bus in the station. Oh well, spilled milk. My new friends, a group of Mexicans on the side of the road, helped me find a private taxi that had two other passengers in it. I got lots of information about time and distance in the taxi, all of it wrong. The driver gave me his card, and one of the other two passengers, Cesar, told me that the driver was trust worthy and had offered to drive me to P.E. For 1400 pesos. I said yes, although this alternative method of transportation cost me an extra $100, but I had no choice.
THE HEALING SANCTUARY
Twelve hours after leaving Oaxaca City, I arrived at the Healing Sanctuary, dehydrated, dirty and exhausted. I washed, had a bit of vegan, raw food and two cups of herb tea, and was able to join the introductory talk by the teachers of Ascension Meditation.
Yesterday I meditated at 6:30 am, had a yoga class, and saw the Pacific Ocean for the first time since I was 16 and on a family trip to California. Then I worked in the garden (which probably won’t produce much because of lack of sun and too much planted. I told the main gardener that she had to be ruthless in spacing to get produce, but she seemed resentful of the advice, for which she had asked, so I held my tongue.
In the afternoon 17 of us (four Americans, six Mexicans, a man and five women, one of them heavily pregnant and with a hauntingly beautiful voice, two Brits, one French, one Hungarian, one Polish, one French Canadian and one Finn) had a highly spiritual Guatemalan Cacoa Ceremony, with breathing sessions, blessing session, singing bowls, and human singing. By the time it was over I was completely overwhelmed and sick from the intensity of travel and then the ceremony, with little sleep and no time for rest during the day, the changes in food, the changes in altitude, the heat after the cool of the mountains.
I have been here for two days, without walking on the beach. I have rested, meditated and drank only water. I am feeling much better now. If I lived here and continued to eat only vegan and raw foods, I would be skinny. Everyone else is incredibly thin. But I definitely feel the need for protein and amino acids.
I’m feeling well enough to go to a restaurant opening tonight and planning to go to an organic farm/ranch tomorrow morning. Hasta luego (until then)….
I visited my second intentional community of my journey and did my third Ascension Meditation weekend-long workshop. These were two of the best things about Puerto Escondido, along with the Pacific Ocean. A third thing to love in Puerto was my Hungarian yoga teacher, who studied in Budapest and in India and had us doing asanas that I have never experienced before in 40 years of yoga classes.
The yoga classes I have taken in Mexico, in three different towns, have been wonderfully diverse and healing. I only took a few in San Miguel de Allende, where I lived last year. The prices were too high for me. However, in Puerto Escondido, they were free.
I left the Healing Sanctuary in Puerto on Monday morning, “On The Road Again”. I wish I was on Willie Nelson’s bus with him. But after humping my suitcases for a few blocks to flag down the bus to the stop where I can pick up a taxi to Zipolite, it was alright…mountains on the left of me, Pacific Ocean on the right, it was alright.
The bus driver helped me with my suitcases, getting on the bus and getting off, for which I tipped him 10 pesos. He was pleased. There was a taxi waiting at the stop, and I was in Zipolite 20 minutes later.